When my husband and I set out to explore the Ha Giang Loop in northern Vietnam, we thought we’d only be gone for three days. Instead, those three days stretched into ten—ten days filled with awe, chaos, laughter, and a few near-death experiences. Looking back, I can honestly say it was one of the most intense and unforgettable trips of my life.
The Slow Start in Ha Giang
Our first day in Ha Giang was cool and rainy. Rather than rush into the journey, we decided to rest, gather supplies, and wander around town. What we found was a charming little waterfall tucked away behind someone’s home, complete with water buffalo grazing nearby. The family invited us for tea as the rain fell, and it felt like the perfect, quiet introduction to Vietnam’s northern mountains.
Weather Delays and Patience
We had planned to hit the road the following morning, but the rain didn’t let up. Locals had warned us that the first leg of the loop was long and difficult, so we decided to wait out the storm. It turned out to be a wise choice, though at the time we were itching to get moving.
The Journey Begins—and Goes Wrong Fast
By the third day, the skies cleared and we were finally off. The drive toward Yen Minh was stunning—rugged cliffs, rice terraces, and waterfalls cascading down the mountainside. At one point, we stopped at a tiny village bridge where kids played naked in the river, completely fascinated by our drone. Moments like that made the ride magical.
But soon after, things went sideways. Our GPS took us off the main road onto a rocky cliffside track that tested every ounce of our patience and skill. To make matters worse, we later realized we were headed in the wrong direction because a friend had mistakenly booked a hostel on the opposite side of the loop. What should have been a 3-hour ride turned into an 11-hour slog through darkness, exhaustion, and frayed nerves.
Festivals and Recovery in Yen Minh
When we finally stumbled into Yen Minh, we were sore, starving, and ready for bed. To our surprise, the town was alive with a children’s festival—floats, music, and a level of noise only Vietnam can pull off. That night ended with cheap beer, karaoke, and a sense of relief that we’d survived day one of the loop.
Floods, Mud, and an Evacuation
The next challenge came a couple of days later in Yen Minh. A night of relentless rain left streets underwater and our hostel floor caked in mud. Landslides had made parts of the road dangerous, but staying felt even riskier. With bags on our backs, we waded through knee-deep water and pushed our motorbikes out of the flood. The ride that followed was terrifying—slippery red clay roads, falling rocks, and rain so heavy it felt like needles against our faces. Somehow, we made it safely to Dong Van.
Finding Peace in Dong Van
After the chaos, Dong Van felt like a blessing. We spent three nights there, mostly resting, eating, and regaining our energy. The town’s dramatic karst mountains and lively atmosphere made it one of my favorite stops on the loop.
Reaching the Northernmost Point
Once we felt ready to ride again, we headed to Lung Cu Tower, Vietnam’s northernmost tip. Standing there, overlooking the border with China, was surreal. The panoramic views were unlike anything I’d ever seen, and for the first time in days, I felt calm and completely in awe.
Love, Beauty, and Bad Luck on Ma Pi Leng Pass
The highlight of the trip came at Ma Pi Leng Pass, a breathtaking gorge carved by the Nho Que River. It was here that our friends got engaged, creating a memory none of us will ever forget. Unfortunately, the joy was short-lived when our drone—loaded with footage of the proposal—crashed into the mountainside, never to be recovered.
Near Misses and Final Thoughts
By the tenth day, we were exhausted and ready to head back to Ha Giang. On the final stretch, a speeding truck nearly sent us over a cliff, leaving me in tears and shaking. It was a harsh reminder of how dangerous these roads can be, especially for inexperienced riders.
So, was the Ha Giang Loop worth it? Absolutely. It tested our limits, humbled us, and gave us moments of beauty I’ll carry forever. The landscapes were raw and untouched, the people were kind, and the adventure was as real as it gets. But it’s not a trip for the faint of heart. If you’re planning to take it on, go prepared—for both the magic and the madness.
