Vatnajökull National Park is one of Iceland’s greatest treasures, stretching across nearly 14% of the country. Dominated by Europe’s largest glacier, the park combines fire and ice in a landscape shaped by volcanoes, rivers, and shifting ice. On my visit, I focused on the southern region, which offers some of the most accessible and breathtaking sights in the entire country.
A Glimpse of Vatnajökull
Covering about 8% of Iceland, Vatnajökull is a vast glacier with an average thickness of nearly 400 meters. Beneath this icy expanse lie several volcanoes, some still active today. These eruptions have historically caused sudden floods as melting ice released torrents of water into the lowlands. Icelanders, however, are well prepared, with excellent alert systems that ensure safety for locals and travelers alike.
Driving in the Park
The best way to explore the southern part of Vatnajökull is by car. The main roads are easy to manage with a standard vehicle, though single-lane bridges require patience and courtesy. Off-road driving into the highlands demands a 4×4, but for a solo trip I stuck to the paved routes. Along the way, I often slowed down for sheep wandering across the road, a reminder that in Iceland, nature sets the pace.
At the end of September, daylight was already short, and driving after sunset was a challenge. Once darkness falls here, it is absolute, with only road markings to guide the way. Add in heavy rain, and even short journeys can feel twice as long. Still, moving slowly felt safer than rushing on unknown roads.
Where to Stay
For four nights I stayed at a cozy countryside guesthouse with views of the glacier itself. The rooms were comfortable, and the small on-site restaurant provided both breakfast and dinner, which was perfect after long days of exploring. Being based close to the park meant I could spend more time outdoors and less time on the road.
Highlights of South Vatnajökull
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
This shimmering lagoon is the deepest lake in Iceland, carved by the retreating Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. Enormous icebergs drift slowly across the water, their shapes and colors constantly changing with the light. Walking trails circle parts of the lagoon, and boat tours are available for those wanting to get closer, though even from the shore the sight is unforgettable. With patience, you may even spot seals surfacing among the floating ice.
Diamond Beach
Just a short walk from the lagoon, the Atlantic waves deposit glistening chunks of ice onto black volcanic sand. The contrast creates a dazzling effect that gives the beach its name. Whether under sunlight or cloudy skies, it feels surreal to stand among sparkling “diamonds” scattered by the sea.
Skaftafell Nature Reserve
Part of the southern park, Skaftafell is a haven for hikers. Trails range from easy walks to challenging treks, many leading to viewpoints of glaciers and peaks. Glacier tours with expert guides are also available, though it’s crucial never to venture onto the ice alone due to hidden crevasses and caves.
Skaftafellsjökull Glacier
Easily reached on foot, this glacier tongue stretches dramatically between mountain ridges. A small lagoon sits at its base, less grand than Jökulsárlón but still striking against the backdrop of jagged peaks. Standing here, you truly feel the scale of Iceland’s frozen landscapes.
The Hike to Svartifoss
One of the most popular trails in Skaftafell leads to Svartifoss, or “Black Falls,” framed by dark basalt columns that resemble organ pipes. The walk is gentle and suitable for most visitors, with two smaller waterfalls—Hundafoss and Magnúsarfoss—appearing along the way. In autumn, I found Hundafoss especially beautiful, surrounded by vibrant foliage. Continuing past Svartifoss rewards you with quieter trails and wide-open views of glaciers and mountains, far from the crowds.
Final Thoughts
South Vatnajökull is a landscape where fire, ice, and water collide in dramatic fashion. From sparkling icebergs to towering waterfalls and glacier-carved valleys, the region feels both wild and welcoming. Even with several days, I felt there was always more to see—new trails, hidden viewpoints, and moments of quiet awe. This corner of Iceland left me eager to return and explore even deeper into the heart of Vatnajökull National Park.